Island Peak

The most iconic and popular trekking peak of Nepal is the Island Peak. The peak is the most famous ones and has height of 6189 m from sea level. The name of the mountain was given by the British expedition. The mountain appears to be in an island in the sea of ice when it is viewed from Dingboche Village. Later on in 1983, locals named the mountain as Imja Tse but the mountain is famously known as the Island Peak across the globe. The peak is the extension of the ridge coming down from the Southern end of the Lhotse Shar. It is indeed the most scenic mountain in this surrounding.

Island (Imja Tse) Peak (6189 m) Location on EBC Trek Route

The location of Mt. Island Peak is inside the Sagarmatha National Park on the way to the Everest Base Camp. Climbers have to trek towards the Chhukung Village instead of heading towards Lobuche in order to reach the base camp of the mountain. The mountain is just about 10 kilometers away from Mt. Everest. Unfortunately, you can’t see the glimpse of Mt. Everest from the top of the Island Peak. The view of the Everest is blocked by the gigantic wall of Lhotse.

Who Climbed Mount Island for the first time?

The South Western Summit of Island Peak was first climbed by the team of British Expedition as the training exercise before attempting to climb Mt. Everest back in 1953. The group consisted of climbers like Tenzing Norgay, Charles Evans, Alfred Gregory, Charles Wylie and seven other unknown Sherpa. The main summit of the mountain was climbed by Hans Rudolf Von Gunten and two other unknown Sherpa back in 1956. This is the Swiss Team of expedition who climbed the Mt. Everest for the second time and they also climbed Lhotse Mountain for the first time.

Island Peak Climbing Route and Outline Itinerary

The climbing route of the Island Peak Climbing is technically difficult than climbing Lobuche Peak and Mera Peak. Therefore, most of the climbers choose Island Peak as the preparatory acclimatization peak before attempting Mt. Everest. There are many crevasses section, glacier section, and vertical ridge steep uphill section before reaching the summit of the mountain.

The journey of climbing the mountain starts either from the Island Peak Base Camp (5087 m). The base camp is also famously known as the Pereshaya Gyab. It is tiring to start the summit push from the base camp but in terms of proper sleep and rest, climbers choose the base camp. Some climbers stay overnight in High Camp (5600 m) which makes ascent easier but it is difficult to spend or sleep overnight. The climbing journey starts as early as 1 or 2 am in the morning. There are few sections where climbers have to use ladder. After climbing for few meters above the High Camp, climbers have to start climbing with the help of rope and ice axe. The top is spacious and it is reached after the steep narrow vertical ridge climbing.

The outline itinerary of the Island Peak Climbing is as follows:

• DAY 01: ARRIVAL IN KATHMANDU

• DAY 02: FLY TO LUKLA, TREK TO PHAKDING (2,651M/8,700FT) 3 – 4 HOURS

• DAY 03: PHAKDING TO NAMCHE BAZAAR (3,438M/11,280 FT) 5 – 6 HOURS

• DAY 04: ACCLIMATIZATION DAY – NAMCHE BAZAAR: (3,440M/11,284FT)

• DAY 05: NAMCHE BAZAAR TO PHORTSE (3,870M/12,694FT) 5- 6 HOURS

• DAY 06: PHORTSE TO DINGBOCHE (4,360 M/14,300 FT) 5 – 6 HOURS

• DAY 07: DINGBOCHE ACCLIMATIZATION DAY

• DAY 08: DINGBOCHE TO LOBUCHE (4910 M) 5/6 HOURS

• DAY 09: LOBUCHE TO GORAK SHEP (5170 M/16,961FT), TO EVEREST BASE CAMP (5364M.)

• DAY 10: GORAK SHEP TO KALA PATTHAR (5,545M/18,192FT) TO DINGBOCHE (4,400M): 16KM, 7-8 HOURS

• DAY 11: DINGBOCHE TO CHHUKUNG (4750M) 3 HOURS

• DAY 12: CHHUKUNG TO ISLAND PEAK BASE CAMP (5000M/17,060FT): 3-4 HOURS

• DAY 13: ISLAND PEAK BASE CAMP TO ISLAND PEAK SUMMIT (6,189M/20,305FT), BACK TO BASE CAMP: 10-12 HOURS

• DAY 14: ISLAND PEAK BASE CAMP TO PANGBOCHE (3,985M/13,074FT) 5-6 HOURS

• DAY 15: PANGBOCHE TO NAMCHE BAZAAR (3,440M/11,286FT): 4-5 HOURS

• DAY 16: NAMCHE BAZAAR TO LUKLA (2,800M/9,186FT): 19KM, 6 – 7 HOURS

• DAY 17: FLY TO KATHMANDU 30 MINUTES

• DAY 18: FINAL INTERNATIONAL DEPARTURE

Imja Tse Peak Climbing with Everest Base Camp Trek

The trekking trip before reaching the base camp of Island Peak consists of legendary Everest Base Camp Trek. Some trekkers even go beyond Everest Base Camp. After exploring the Everest Base Camp and Kalapathar, climbers return back to Chhukung Village near the Pereshaya Gyab via Kong Ma La Pass (5535 m). This is the best way to get acclimatized before attempting to climb the Island Peak.

Cost of climbing Island (Imja Tse) Peak

The satisfying fact about the cost of the Island Peak Climbing in Nepal is that it includes the Everest Base Camp Trek and Kalapathar Hike. The climbing package includes climbing permit that costs 250 USD (spring), 125 USD (autumn), 70 USD (summer/winter) and successful climbing certificate issued by Nepal Mountaineering Association. In addition, the journey is full board basis and consists of trekking guide, porter, Sherpa guide, and Climbing guide. Therefore, the overall cost 2150 $ per person is the bargain price to climb Island Peak in Nepal.

Can I do Lobuche Peak Climbing and Island Climbing in one trip?

Yes, it is possible to do the Lobuche Peak Climbing and Island Peak Climbing in one single trip. Lots of adventure enthusiasts and climbers prefer to do this way of climbing as it saves the entire trekking trip cost. If a climber adds around 400 USD to 500 USD then they can climb both of these mountains in one single trip. The trekking route to the base camps of both mountains follows the similar trekking itinerary which is the itinerary of the Everest Base Camp Trek.

Don’t worry if you don’t have any prior mountaineering experiences to do peak climbing activities in Nepal. You can successfully complete the peak climbing activity after a brief training if you have immense physical fitness level.